Saturday, March 24, 2012

Follow in Papa's footsteps: a 2-mile Hemingway hike

I found this looking for something else. It was last posted in 2005 and except for a few costs which are probably higher, it still looks accurate. You could see and get to know a lot about the island doing this.

Follow in Papa%26#39;s footsteps: a 2-mile Hemingway hike:

1. Start at the Hemingway House, 907 Whitehead St. Now a registered National Historic Landmark, the two-story Spanish Colonial mansion was home to Ernest and Pauline (Pfeiffer) Hemingway from 1931-1939. See the studio where Hemingway wrote Death in the Afternoon and The Snows of Kilimanjaro. The house is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily and includes a gift shop. Admission is $11 for adults ($1 off to AAA members), $6 for kids 6-12, free to kids under 6. Guided tours are available. (305) 294-1136. www.hemingwayhome.com.

Next, head north on Whitehead to Petronia Street. Turn left. Walk 2 blocks to the intersection with Thomas Street.

2. Blue Heaven Restaurant, 729 Thomas St. During Hemingway%26#39;s time here, the quirky cafe with yummy granola and a whole lot more was the site of an open-air boxing arena. He was referee for Friday-night fights. Boxers were paid 50 cents a round. The building once housed a bordello. These days the eatery is a tourist favorite. Be prepared for dirt floors and good food. And beware of long lines and roaming roosters.

Go east on Petronia to Duval Street. Turn left and continue to the northwest corner of Duval and Fleming.

3. Crowne Plaza La Concha Resort, formerly the Colonial Hotel, 430 Duval St. Back in 1928, when Hemingway made his inaugural visit to Key West sailing aboard a steamship from Cuba, this seven-story hotel was the first thing he saw. That%26#39;s because it is and was the city%26#39;s tallest building. The Hemingways booked rooms there for friends and relatives. While you%26#39;re there, take the elevator to the roof-top bar for a magnificent view of the city.

Go east on Fleming to Elizabeth Street. Turn right at the Monroe County Library to Windsor Lane. Turn left on Windsor until you reach the church at the intersection with Truman Avenue.

4. St. Mary, Star of the Sea, 1010 Windsor Lane. Hemingway, who converted to Catholicism when he married Pauline Pfeiffer, belonged and donated an altar to this church.

Walk southwest on Windsor to Margaret Street. Take Margaret to Fleming.

5. Electric Kitchen, 830 Fleming. The only thing electric here in Hemingway%26#39;s time was a few bare lightbulbs strung from the ceiling. The food was cheap (20 to 40 cents for breakfast) and good and the place, operated by Rhoda Baker (aka Rutabaga) was a favorite Hemingway hangout.

Continue north on Margaret to the waterfront, Land%26#39;s End Village.

6. Land%26#39;s End Village and Marina (formerly Thompson%26#39;s Docks), 1 Lands End Village. An avid fisherman and boater, Hemingway often visited and took charter boats from the docks owned by his friend Charles Thompson. Thompson and his two brothers controlled the sea turtle industry in the Keys and Central America. The site of the cannery is now a restaurant, bar and museum called Turtle Kraals.

Go south on Caroline Street. Take Caroline west to the southwest corner at the intersection with Simonton.

7. Casa Antigua, Papa%26#39;s first pad, 314 Simonton St. The apartment/auto dealership complex where Hemingway first lived is a private home today. The couple stayed in a drab set of rooms in an apartment above the garage. Hemingway worked on A Farewell to Arms here. The home has a magnificent atrium garden, and a Caribbean gift shop. The garden is open for tours and visitors can glimpse the apartment where Hemingway stayed. Casa Antigua is the site of the annual awards presentation for the Lorian Hemingway Short Story Competition directed by Ernest%26#39;s granddaughter, an author, too.

Go north on Simonton to Greene Street, past Duval to Captain Tony%26#39;s.

8. Captain Tony%26#39;s Saloon, the first Sloppy Joe%26#39;s, 428 Greene St. Hemingway was a silent partner to boat captain and rum runner Joe Russell, who opened this speakeasy when Prohibition ended in 1933. Hemingway convinced Joe to call the place ';Sloppy Joe%26#39;s'; rather than the ';Blind Pig,'; a term used for illegal bars. In 1937, Sloppy Joe%26#39;s moved to its current location on Duval Street.

Take Greene Street east to the northeast corner of Greene and Duval.

9. Sloppy Joe%26#39;s, 201 Duval St. Hemingway met his third wife Martha Gellhorn at this Sloppy Joe%26#39;s. A number of his belongings, including uncashed royalty checks and sections of the original manuscript of To Have and Have Not, were found stored there after his death. Before it was the most popular bar on Duval, this building housed a fine restaurant called Victoria. The Spanish man who owned it had an unfortunate name 锟斤拷锟?Farto. Thousands of tourists come to Sloppy Joes each year to toast the author and look at all the Hemingway memorabilia, including news clippings and art work depicting Hemingway.

Source: Hemingway%26#39;s Key West by Stuart B. McIver (Pineapple Press, $10.95)

Pjk

Follow in Papa's footsteps: a 2-mile Hemingway hike

Thanks! We%26#39;ll be taking this walking tour when we return to Key West next month!

Follow in Papa's footsteps: a 2-mile Hemingway hike

An interesting update...

Much of this information was used in my research for Papa%26#39;s Problem, my novel about Hemingway. Nothing much has changed other than the numbers of tourists that flock here.

Patrick Kendrick

Pjk


Wow! Are you a published author Pjk?

The walk sounds interesting btw. I don%26#39;t know how true this is but I heard the reason Hemingway%26#39;s wife chose that house was because of it%26#39;s proximity to the lighthouse so he could find his way home at night. lol


PJK - This book is going onto my Christmas list. And whenever we do get to have a mojito together there at El Meson de Pepe I%26#39;ll be asking you to autograph it. Looks great!


Hold on thar pards. That message was sent to me by Patrick, an aquaitence of mine from the Hemingway Society. But if you want your copies signed, we can do it by snail mail or you can drop off your copies if we cross paths in Key West sometime.

Much of what is told about Hemingway in Key West has been, er, embellished. You can do a searth here on Toby Bruce to ge the skinny.

Pjk


Aww well, so much for my powers of deduction. lol I just guessed that you were Patrick Kendrick,Pjk. I hope I don%26#39;t have to give back my nifty decoder ring now.

Thanks for clearing that up : )

I will have quite a library by the time I purchase all the great recommended reading. The perfect passtime while lounging by the pool.


Oops. Sorry about the mixup. But I do definitely plan to read the book. And I am still looking forward to meeting you and having that El Meson mojito!


Great info. Update on the LaConcha. A new policy is in effect. The general public can not use the elevator to the top until 4:30 pm every day. Just an FYI.

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